I love that pizza is such an emotional subject. My declaration of Delancey as not only the best pizza in Seattle (and possibly the best pizza west of the Mississippi) as well as my claim that Seattle finally had “real” pizza got lots reaction. I think most of the negative responses were over my casual use of the word “real”. To be fair to those folks, all the pizza in Seattle is indeed real. Unfortunately, almost all of it is real bad. To me, the most beautiful, simple, and core expression of pizza in the world is produced by Totonno’s Pizzeria Napolitano on Coney Island in New York. I am not making a statement about the history of Pizza, where it originates, or anything that has to do with objective facts. I am stating my opinion that Totonno’s Pizza is the most perfect expression of the pizza ideal in my head that I have ever had in the world (including in Italy) and that to me, all pizza should aspire to be like it. And Delancey, in my opinion, has equaled that pizza.
That said, there are other forms of pizza – and in fact, New York produces another favorite style, the uniform standard NYC pizza, not burnt like Totonno’s, and almost always offered by the slice on almost every street corner. Seattle’s pizza establishments most often try to emulate this offering. And they should as it’s often very good, and certainly recognizable to pizza afficionados. I found myself in Everett recently. And since I don’t go to Everett very often I knew that I better take advantage and head over to Brooklyn Bros. Pizzeria. I was told that it was as authentic as they come around here.
The establishment is adorable, and I’m sure if I was a local I’d be a Silvertips fan as well. But I didn’t come for decor or for minor league hockey (as good as they each may be). I came to eat the fifth food group — pizza. We ordered the Bowery. Pepperoni, sausage, and roasted garlic. Lots of all of it. There are many ingredients in what I call the “unfair advantage” category. Add them to most things, and they get better disproportionately to the ingredient’s importance (or quantity) in the dish. Butter, truffles, bacon, etc. Garlic is definitely one of them, and the brothers Brooklyn weren’t shy with it. There were copious quantities of garlic. Boatloads in fact. And the pizza, well, it rocked. Cheating? Perhaps. Delicious? Definitely.
It was certainly not a Delancey pizza. And that was fine. This is a different animal. This pizza more closely resembles the better of the pies you find all throughout Manhattan. It wasn’t just the heady mix of ever-so-slightly spicy sausage, crisply cooked pepperoni curling above the fray, flavorful sauce, and again… that intense amount of garlic in every bight, but the crust… well it was incredibly buttery. I’m not saying butter was used, but buttery is the only way to describe the crust. It was almost drippingly so, and it served the pizza well.
I felt that the only way to really understand the quality here was to have a slice of cheese pizza in addition to our pie. And unfortunately, this wasn’t quite what we’d hoped. To be fair, it sat out for awhile as slices are supposed to do. But even after reheating in the pizza oven it wasn’t great. Something was off in the ratio between the cheese and the sauce. And the overabundance of cheese felt a bit rubbery as well.
The whole pie we got was so yummy garlicky good, that even if that’s the only pizza they make well I would gladly go back to eat it again and again. And I have a feeling that these Brooklyn siblings (such as they are) are probably good at a bunch of others as well. For now I’m assuming the slices just had an off day, and the fresh pies are all a treat. Here’s to finding out for sure!